Planet Money

Strange threadfellows: How the U.S. military shaped what we all wear

December 10, 2025

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  • The U.S. military's massive R&D and production efforts during World War II, particularly the creation of the M43 layering system, fundamentally shaped modern civilian and outdoor clothing technology. 
  • The abrupt end of WWII created a massive surplus of military gear, which flooded the market through Army surplus stores, effectively launching the modern outdoor gear industry (like REI) and establishing military surplus as a cheap source for everyday basics. 
  • The M65 field jacket and other surplus items transitioned from essential soldier gear to counterculture fashion (worn by hippies and protesters) and eventually became mainstream 'yuppified' style, exemplified by the founding of Banana Republic based on military surplus aesthetics. 

Segments

Military Influence on Fashion
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(00:00:24)
  • Key Takeaway: The U.S. military’s influence on everyday clothing is extensive, extending beyond major technologies to the very fabric of what people wear.
  • Summary: Fashion reporter Avery Trufelman argues that the U.S. military has shaped much of the clothing worn daily, a hidden influence visible in items like outdoor gear and performance fabrics. Specific examples noted include the military pioneering artificial down technology, which was later commercialized by Primaloft through LL Bean. Details like velcro straps and cord locks on jackets are also vestiges of military design.
WWII and Clothing Innovation
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(00:07:15)
  • Key Takeaway: World War II forced the U.S. Quartermaster Corps to scientifically develop functional, adaptable clothing systems, leading to the creation of the M43 field jacket.
  • Summary: The need to outfit soldiers for global, varied climates during WWII spurred scientific testing, involving experts like those from Harvard and outdoor figures like Eddie Bauer and LL Bean. This testing led to the realization that layering was superior to a single jacket, resulting in the modular M43 field jacket, which featured four pockets and waist cinching.
Post-War Surplus Economics
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(00:14:20)
  • Key Takeaway: The abrupt end of WWII left the U.S. government with a massive, unanticipated oversupply of clothing, which was sold off cheaply, creating the Army surplus store phenomenon.
  • Summary: The War Assets Administration was tasked with selling off mountains of gear, including 16 million pounds of surplus clothing in one month alone, making Army surplus stores the ‘Uniqlo of the 1950s.’ This influx of cheap, durable military gear provided a significant boon to nascent outdoor companies like REI, which supplemented their own production with surplus inventory.
M65 Jacket and Counterculture
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(00:17:37)
  • Key Takeaway: The M65 field jacket, an updated military design from the Vietnam era, was adopted by the counterculture movement, ironically turning military gear into a symbol of rebellion.
  • Summary: The M65 jacket, featuring velcro straps and a stowaway hood, entered the surplus ecosystem and was worn by anti-war figures like John Lennon and Jane Fonda. This trend evolved into a chic subculture in the 1970s, leading to boutiques that stylized and sold modified surplus items.
Banana Republic and Yuppification
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(00:23:20)
  • Key Takeaway: Banana Republic was founded by styling and reselling military surplus, marking the ‘yuppification’ of military aesthetics before the company shifted to manufacturing its own lines.
  • Summary: Patricia and Mel Ziegler started their business by modifying surplus items, such as Spanish military shirts, seeing an opportunity to sell military pieces for higher prices by adding style elements like suede patches. The name ‘Banana Republic’ was chosen to evoke struggling young countries selling off dictator surplus, but the supply dried up as the U.S. ended the draft, forcing them to sell to Gap to begin manufacturing their own styles.
Modern Military Contracting
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(00:26:02)
  • Key Takeaway: Many popular outdoor brands, such as Arc’teryx, Gore-Tex, and Outdoor Research, actively moonlight as U.S. military contractors, often keeping this business discreet.
  • Summary: Military contracts are vital for domestic manufacturing because military gear must be made in the U.S. for national security reasons, offering companies like Outdoor Research a stable income stream that balances the seasonal nature of civilian retail. Outdoor Research openly embraces this dual role, noting that military contracts subsidize innovation that then ‘cascades’ into their civilian outdoor products.
Military Connection to Economy
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(00:35:04)
  • Key Takeaway: The deep integration of the military into the economy means that many familiar civilian brands are also military suppliers, leading to a realization that personal connection to the military-industrial complex is far greater than assumed.
  • Summary: Attending the Association of the United States Army Trade Show revealed that nearly every sector, from phone companies to gear makers, contracts with the military, making clothing just the ’tip of the spear.’ This realization caused Avery Trufelman to shift from feeling conflicted about military style to acknowledging the shared history and influence of these institutions on American life.